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View Full Version : Outback Outriggers: reply to Lee


Apalach
09-29-2004, 08:22 AM
Lee,
Sorry, but the private messaging did not work, so I thought I would reply via the forum.

1. The 5x11 lobster pot buoys seem to be fine, although Joey and others have gone to the 6x14s. Latter are considerably larger, so in addition to the increased flotation, you have increased storage problems, especially if you wish to store them on the yak somehow. I'm about 6 ft, 175, however if you are somewhat larger (say in the 220-250 range), you might find the 6x14s more satisfactory. Dealer's choice.

2. Aluminum backing plate--both Lowe's and HD carry these, but they are a bit hard to find in the stores. They are mixed in with round steel, flat steel, aluminum, etc. in a rack about 2-3 feet high, with the metal pieces standing upright. Be sure to ask a clerk where their flat metal stock would be, because I could not find them myself the first time I tried. I would definitely avoid steel, because you will have rusting problems inside the hull that could get pretty nasty in a few months to a year. Painting the steel would help, but would not be a permanent solution.

3. Sailing with outriggers: I have not tried this yet. Once you are on a tack, and heeled over, I was afraid the buoys would dig in and perhaps cause steering problems due to the drag. This could probably be solved by simply elevating and locking the outrigger arms, with the bottom of the buoys say about 6-8 inches or so above the water surface. This way the buoys would only make contact when sailing close-hauled on a tack and might not dig in too much. Of course, this also depends on how choppy the bay water might be at the time. The Outback sails pretty well without the outriggers anyway, so I would suggest trying it without them the first time until you got the hang of it, and then give the outriggers a try to see which way you preferred. Best of Luck.
Dick

Lee
09-29-2004, 01:17 PM
Thanks for the reply. I finally found the 2inch wide aluminum backing plate(after I had already cut and drill hole on the steel plate) at another Home Depot. I'll just redo it with aluminum and go with the 5x11 floats since I'm only 5'8" and 165 lbs

Lee
10-07-2004, 08:04 AM
One more question, how did you eliminate the gap between the two buoys? Did you drill or cut a hole on the top half of the buoy? Also, did you end up glueing any part of the connections?

Apalach
10-07-2004, 02:31 PM
Yeah--a sharp pocketknife was used to carve out some half-moon incisions in the tops of the buoys so they would fit flush around the PVC support.

As I recall, I used the standard PVC cement to attach the main support pieces of the outriggers, but left the end caps on the buoys uncemented so I could take the buoys off the PVC pipe for storage or transport purposes. As it turned out however, those end caps were on so tight even without the cement that it took a pair of pliers to get them off anyway. I also left the vertical piece of PVC to which the buoy support pipe was attached uncemented for the same reason, but drilled a hole at the connection and put a SS screw there to hold the buoy support bar on (note the red arrow on the pic below).

Lee
10-08-2004, 06:20 AM
I used Salvy's idea and used a threaded connection so I can turn the buoys 90 degree for storage on the kayak. I made a set of 5x11 and 6x14. The 6x14 did not appear that much bigger. I take it you glued the 90 degree elbow. I will duct tape for now for testing purpose and will later put 2 small screws to prevent slippage. I glued all other connections.

Your implementation is very simple and clean. The threaded connection did add more height to the vertical section but the 6x14 required 3/4 inch pvc so it is pretty solid. I actually needed more height since the handle that tighten the RAM tube scrapes the kayak lightly at the lowest position.

Apalach
10-09-2004, 06:44 AM
Yeah Lee--as you have probably noticed, there is more than one way to skin this cat. You can use various sizes of reduction couplers, threaded vs. non-threaded, etc. In fact, I had decided on a different size reduction coupler until I happened to find the one pictured below (1 1/4 x 1/2") that went straight from the main 1 1/4" PVC pipe down to a 1/2" elbow (cemented) after the addition of the 1 1/4" sleeve (also cemented) over the main pipe.

The SS screw on mine serves the same purpose as your threaded connection. I unscrew it enough to rotate the buoys 90 degrees and then tighten it slightly to hold them in place for transport or storage purposes.

Apalach
10-09-2004, 07:31 AM
Just for kicks, here is the alternate way I was thinking of using. If you are using 3/4" pipe to mount the 6x14s, then you can eliminate the 3/4" by 1/2" reduction sleeve to make it even simpler. The 5x11s use the 1/2" PVC as noted earlier.

Lee
10-09-2004, 02:36 PM
My setup is very similar to your existing setup. Instead of the 1 1/4 to 1/2 reducer, I used 1 1/4 to 1 inch reducer and connected to that is a 3/4 inch threaded male 90 degree elbow. The female threaded 3/4 inch is then glued on a short section of 3/4 pvc that is just long enough to extend the 3/4 inch female threaded pass the top of the buoy.