Build your own yak?

[JEM]

Just doing kind of an interest check:

Any amatuer boat builders here? Any interest in building your own yak (SOT and SIS) if it was reasonably straight forward and easy to do?

Cost to do one yourself would be about $350 or so. Then add your outfitting costs.

Lots of other details but on a general...overall level, who might be interested?

Thanks,

Matt

[JEM]

Just doing kind of an interest check:

Any amatuer boat builders here? Any interest in building your own yak (SOT and SIS) if it was reasonably straight forward and easy to do?

Cost to do one yourself would be about $350 or so. Then add your outfitting costs.

Lots of other details but on a general...overall level, who might be interested?

Thanks,

Matt

[DMala]

A few years ago I built a fast SIK from a kit (fiberglass/epoxy). If you are minimally handy, there is no major difficulty in laying the fabric and applying resin. The difficulty in building a yak from scratch is to build or find a mold with good nautical characteristics. That could bring the costs up if you do not have a way to borrow one.



DMala

[JEM]

The method I have in mind doesn't require a mold.

And you're completely correct in that you need a sound design to start with. That's why I'd prototype first before making any plans available.

The plans offering would also have to have distinct styles. Some people like them wide, some skinny, some want long, some want short...about 5-6 different categories.

[JimW]

I've built 3 strip boats but I'm working on some S/G plans for an SOT. I might get a prototype built this winter and if it paddles the way I want I'll let y'all have the offsets.

[Socrates_thinks]

EG. Chesapeake, Roy Folland, etc. The least expensive seem to be about $750 plus shipping, but the parts are precision cut, jigs included, seating, manual, etc. Both have a good reputation it seems.

Not sure how you can reduce the cost a whole lot more and still make money...what's your plan?

Best,
Soc

aka Capn Jimbo aka Jim aka Hey you!



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[Davey jones]

If I were to buy a kayak kit it would be from Pygmy Kayaks; they have a triple that I want to add pontoons too and a small motor.....oh, and a sail.

[JEM]

The big advantage to building your own is weight. You can get it significantly lighter than roto-molded. Plus you get to customize it the way you want to.

You can save big bucks by cutting the wood yourself. It requires well laid out, easy to follow plans which I know I can provide. You could build one complete probably for $350-$400.

The biggest trade off is wear resistence. Roto-molded plastic is great for scrapes. Fiberglass requires a little more care.

One caution: Building your own boat is addicting! I'll try to get some picture posted of the preliminary hull I'm working on.

[JEM]

Ok, I'll submit a disclaimer and say this is not for everyone so I'm hoping to avoid a debate of building vs. buying.

Here's a preliminary look:

This one is designed for the middle of the road between a flat water fishing machine and high performance ocean-swells yak. After I get this established, we can design more for other ends of the spectrum.

Length 14'. Beam 30" with a medium rockered hull. But look at the front view. It has the same hull deadrise as a 26-28" yak. A nice taper to allow for strokes close to the hull without having to lean far over. Has a slight v-bottom so a gentle lean in one direction and she turn as well as a flat bottom. The slight V will make for good tracking too.

From the software volume calculations, she'll displace 450lbs (and real life experience has proven those figures to be darn close) minus the weight of the hull and equipment. That's at a waterline level with the cockpit floor. Boat weight of about 50 lbs using marine plywood. That will also vary with the skill of the builder. Better builders can build them lighter.

The cockpit and tankwell will have similar construction. Very simple to build and highly functional. Note the cockpit seating is not complete in these images. But what I'm thinking is having a simple flat floor with a curved seat bench raised about an inch above. Will you to sit above the water and should keep you plenty dry and provide a nice flat platform to work or stand on. Still need to work on how high you'll sit without getting tippy.

Counsel can be added for between your feet or install hatches. The scuppers are not show in these images but I'd suggest installing only 2, take it paddling, and then install more if you want.

The rear tankwell could also serve as a tandem cockpit long as you have 2 smaller paddlers. I could stretch the design for a larger model easily. There's room for a 6" round hatch and pole mounts between the cockpit and the massive tanwell. I may shrink that.

Plenty of flat surface area for mounting stuff. Don't be concerned about structural strength. There's things going on underneath the hull that will make it rock solid. Plus I'll build a prototype for evaluation. I have a few people with yak experience that I let use and evaluate it. I'll knock it around pretty good before make plans for sale. If you're near North Cakalacky, feel free to take her for a spin.

Plan on spending $400-$500 if you use top of the line materials. Lots of way to cut that cost but there are trade offs to that such of aesthetics and boat weight. Building your own boat is not for everyone. Many times you could go out and purchase one complete for about the same price. But if you spent the same on a new yak as building one with the best materials, the one you built would be lighter and stronger. Plus the feeling of paddling something you've build is indescribable. Again, this is not for everyone so I'm hoping to avoid a debate of building vs. buying.

I would like design opinions (even if you won't ever build your own). I've used a lot good features and advice from other sources to come up with this one. So let's hear it. What do you all think?

[This message was edited by JEM on December 15, 2003 at 11:08 AM.]

[This message was edited by JEM on December 15, 2003 at 11:09 AM.]

[JEM]

Front view

[JimW]

Like the full flare. What's the software say the hull spped should be? Have you built a similar hull yet? Looks like it might be hard to get that bottom panel to make the transition so quickly at the bow.

[mrsinbad]

I agree with Jim, the bow looks like it's gonna be tough. I'm also guessing it's gonna weigh pretty heavy with all the wood you need to make a c0ckpit and tankwell. Good luck and keep us up to date with the construction.

mrsinbad http://kfs.infopop.cc/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[JEM]

Haven't built a prototype yet but will in the next few weeks. I believe that trasition can be done.

It's a common belief about the hull being heavy because of using "wood". What needs to be understood is that this is a composite design using MARINE GRADE plywood as the core. Okoume and Eurolite plywood are very very different than what you pick up at the Home Depot.

Often it's hard to believe until you actually work with the stuff yourself. Then you become a believer.

The hull will be lighter than a roto-molded equivelant.

[JimW]

I think the weight may be ok Ed. You can build SIK decked versions under 35 lbs with care. Will require some good planning to avoid adding a lot of glass and resin compensation at weak spots.