Kayak Rudder Installation
We put together the KFS rudder kit and have used what we feel are the best components. The kits will work on virtually any kayak with some small adjustments. Below you will find instructions for an Ocean Kayak Prowler. On the Prowler and other Ocean kayak models you will need to have a center hatch installed. We recommend installing an 8" hatch to make the task easier. Some kayaks will already have some of the drilling done for you as their kayaks are made in the mold with all the necessary fittings to receive a rudder, even if it was not factory installed. When using a mounting bracket, install the bracket in the pre-existing holes then follow the basic instructions below. Obviously, you won't be working with a rudder post hole as shown with the Prowler install below. The bracket will be the hole for the rudder post. Tools needed for the job: drill, screw tip, cutter, lineman pliers, drill bits of 1/4 ,3/8, 1/2" screw driver, lighter, marker and 7/16 socket wrench.
First you are going to do the foot slides. We are going to use the black plastic slide mount to mark for the nuts and bolts.
You can get an idea of where to position the slides. Some kayaks you won't have a choice as the inserts or holes will already be there.
After you mark the holes, drill them with a 1/4" bit. Insert the bolts, back them with washers if you can and tighten on the nut. NOTE- make sure the aluminum slide is in before you fasten the nuts and bolts. You can get it in later but you'll have to hammer it in so this will save you some banging. Also make sure the end on the aluminum with the threaded hole is facing the stern of the kayak(that's the hole that will receive the bolt which holds the rudder cable).
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Now we are going to work with the back end. On older Ocean Kayak models, you will have to ream out the rudder post hole with a 1/2" bit.
Once you have the rudder fitting in, you can put the holding clip to prevent it from coming out. Put a copper stop on one end and crimp it. When crimping make sure you use pliers with cutters and that you really squeeze down on it. We use an X-pattern while crimping-it to ensure that it bites into the cable. Makes sure you have the fork end on before you crimp the copper stop. Once the copper stop is on with the fork end you can slide the clevis pin through and put the cotter pin in the bottom of the clevis.
You now want to drill the 1/4" holes that you feed the tubing through. This tubing is a channel for the wire that you just fastened to the rudder.
Feeding the tubing through can be tricky and you need to use something to guide it up the kayak. We use a fishing rod with a hook (made out of wire) on the end. On the Prowler you work it from the center hatch and once you grab the tube you just feed it through the hole you have drilled up front. Once you have it through, leave 1" sticking out on both ends and with the lighter heat up the very tip so it flares out. This prevents it from going into the hole and inside the kayak.
After the tubing is in, feed the wire into it. Use the crimp for the double wire and make a loop and crimp it down-again. You really want to bite into the crimp in a couple of places. Once again use an X-pattern. Take the screw and tighten it in the aluminum slide around the loop. When you align the cable length, make sure the rudder is in the center (neutral) position. Trim the excess cable.
Next you just have to run the guides for the cord that controls the rudder's up and down movement. Use well nuts or screws to fasten the plastic guides. Just make sure that you have the cord the right way and that the rudder does go up and down before doing all your final fastening.
Completed rudder system.
Installing a Rudder Without a Center Hatch:
We have discovered, thanks to some pretty crafty kayak fisherman out there, that you can run the rudder cables without the use of a center hatch. You will need to have flush mount rod holders installed and be able to take them out and access the cables through the flush mount cut outs.
Run the rudder tubing though the rear cable hole.
Grab it with the a piece a copper wire (solid copper unsheathed 3/16). You can get it at Home Depot. Bring a small piece of tubing with you and make sure the wire fits in there snug.
After you feed the tubing in the rear hole, fish it out with a hooked end of the copper wire. Next, insert the copper wire in the front rudder cable hole and then pop one end of the copper wire outside the flush mount hole. Place the tubing over the wire, about 12" so it's really on there tight.
Now pull the wire through the front hole and you are ready to run the rudder cable and connect the front assembly to the rear.
