Towards the end of 2003, I researched everything out there in the way of yak trailers and finally settled on the Trailex as being the best of show. I have the SUT-250-M four yak trailer that I purchased back in January of 2004. Here is a pic of the PITY (Put-It-Together-Yourself) trailer.
In addition, I got the COMBO package that includes a spare tire with galvanized rim, spare tire mounting kit, and Bearing Buddies w/Bras. However, the addition that I really like is the Self Mount Box Kit for mounting a pickup truck-type tool box directly on the trailer.
This no-name box came from Pep Boys, and was on sale for about $110, as I recall. It fits perfectly cross-wise on the trailer with the mounting kit. The only possible drawback is that you can only access the tool box when the yaks are off the trailer. Since I don't store the yaks on the trailer anyway, this has never been a problem for me. With both the Sport and the Outback, and if you pack it carefully, I find I can carry both paddles, both seats, both Mirage drives, and both PFDs, plus my poling stick, light stick, tool kit, anchor kit, duct tape, extra bow/anchor lines and a few other odds 'n ends all in the one box. Can't carry the wheel assembly there any more, unfortunately-that goes in my truck now. Of course, you can mount the tool box facing forward or aft, but my personal preference is as you see it here-just easier for me to straddle the rear light assembly than to climb over the mid-rail to take stuff in or out from the front.
OK-so how about loading and securing yaks on these trailers? I have to admit that I had entirely the wrong idea about how to tie down yaks on either a roof rack or a trailer. But Andy, the professional loader and all-around yak expert at my local dealership gave me the straight scoop. Use a 12 foot tie down strap with a pressure clip or clamp-forget the ratchet rigs and hooks-they can and will slip off when hitting a bump on a dirt road or pot-holed strip of pavement. In addition, they may be the cause of hull deformation on some types of yaks due to being secured with too much pressure. The tie-down straps and pressure clamps you see here work great and do not slip. Note the small pad beneath the clamp to protect the finish on your yak or vehicle. These things are fairly pricey, but investing in an excellent set of tie-down straps is well worth any extra expense.
Another great feature about this trailer is that it is so light in weight that it tows like a dream and can easily be pushed/pulled to and from your vehicle by one person fully loaded (the trailer, that is, not the person!). It is also nice in that you can easily carry up to four kayaks on their sides, or two hull-down or hull-up. Here is a pic showing a Hobie Outback and Sport mounted on one side. Of course, there is room for two more yaks mounted the same way on the other side.
When carrying only two yaks, however, I prefer to mount them cockpit down. They seem to ride more securely this way, and it is easier to lash them down when they are not rocking on their hulls. You also get maximum friction and contact between the trailer cross-bar and the hull this way, that in turn prevents undue slipping and sliding. Also some rain and leak protection thru your hatches while underway.
The most secure way to attach the lashing straps, either on a roof rack cross-bar or on a trailer, is to double the straps and attach the bight (middle of looped portion) to the center bar. You then bring both bitter ends across the upper side of the hull and secure them on the far side around the mounting bar (roof rack or trailer).
It is also not a bad idea to take a turn thru either a scupper hole or the Mirage Drive opening on the Hobies to prevent forward movement.
Here is a closer view of how the straps go around the center post to prevent lateral movement and then over the hull as you saw in the prior figures.
The only really bad thing about this rig was the manufacturer's assembly instructions which were frustrating at best, and laughable to absurd at worst. Like this note in the assembly instructions: “Put canoes or kayaks on trailer, make sure they are fastened down and secured.” You still with me? The next instruction was to “Install tires on hubs, using 13/16 “ socket and ratchet (torque to 80 foot-pounds, re-torque after first 25 miles).”
Sure hope Jon or someone at KFS can do something about the instructions, if they are still as garbled as before. All in all, however, a great trailer, and not really that expensive for an all-aluminum, really well-made and sturdy trailer. Also my knees, and back, and two rotator cuffs really appreciate the Trailex as well!!
P.S.: Whoops--almost forgot--always twist the lashing straps as you bring them across the hull. This eliminates the very annoying "drumming" sound from your straps and boat as your lashing straps vibrate in the wind.
Trailex Trailers are available in our in shop and our online store.